Thanksgiving weekend was fun for David and I. We rarely get to go out by ourselves and my mother in law came over on Friday afternoon to watch the boys while David and I went to the Yule Ball and she stayed the night so as to watch them again on Saturday when we went Christmas shopping. While we were out, I realized I needed a coat. I have had many coats over the years but currently have a 7-year old denim coat lined with fleece - an old favorite, much worn - and a cream colored fleece coat that zips up the front. I love my denim coat but the fact that it is getting dingy is getting harder and harder to ignore. The cream coat is rather fashionable but it is absolutely not flattering on me and it is rather not warm. . .being made of a single layer of fleece, smooth on the outside and “fleecy” looking on the inside.
Some modern coats are hideous and some are actually pretty cute, but it always seems the cute ones are more than I want to spend. I have had good luck finding like-new things at thrift stores so we stopped at our favorite one on Saturday and I browsed their coat rack. There was a cute green one in my size, but it was way too long waisted. David pulled out a substantial snuff-colored woolen one, straight of the 70’s. . .it definitely looked warm but it was too hideous to wear, even for me. There was a 1980’s styled long black leather coat, embossed all over. It was actually tempting. . .but $17 for a used coat? I left the store feeling a little depressed and as we walked into Wal Mart, our last stop before going home, I shivered and pulled my coat tighter around me. Then I had a brilliant idea. I remembered 5 yards of a dark royal blue sueded moleskin I have been hoarding the past few months. I had no idea what to make with it. . .until then. I knew it was destined to become my new winter coat.
Wal Mart coughed up a few yards of black fleecy fabric for the body lining. . .it was ugly with a flashy zebra print on the right side, but the inside was perfectly good. From my stash I pulled some worsted wool scraps for the sleeve interlinings and cut up a dark red satin sheet for the sleeve lining. Black velvet bits cut from a pre-baby Laura Ashley dress was set aside to be lapels, the collar and cuffs. 
I had a few ideas for the design but in the end went with what I knew was best for my needs. It had to be long enough to reach my boot tops. It had to have some feminine shape to it, darn it! I hate ugly coats that are all up and down angles and make one look like a stuffed sausage. It had to have fairly classic styling. I debated making a “real” historic style but tossed the idea. I always make historic things and then rarely wear them. . .this coat can go with modern or historic clothes and still look normal.
I settled on a princess style coat with a double breasted front closure, for extra warmth, with skirts flaring gently from a slightly fitted waist. The sleeves are plain and long. It is very basic, but, I hope, will be very serviceable for many years.
I have been working on it this week, more from necessity than from desire. I am really burned out on sewing right now but I really do need this coat. It is currently about 75% done. I need to hand stitch the lining to the armholes to finish the seams there, even out and make the hem and make buttons and buttonholes for the double breasted closure. I may make some pockets for the front - just welt pockets with a black velvet tab - but I don’t know for sure yet. I should. I use pockets as I rarely like to carry a purse. I need to decide before I do the hem, or else I won’t be able to access the outer layer separately and putting in the pockets will be hard and awkward.
It is hard to believe it is December 1st today! Where has the year gone?! We set up our Christmas tree over the weekend and I made my first batch of Christmas cookies. I want to savor every moment of this Christmas season instead of waking up in a few weeks and realizing “Oh my! Christmas is in three days!” We went to the Festival of Lights parade on Saturday night and the boys enjoyed seeing the huge lighted figures drive by. A very perfect way to kick off the Christmas season, I think. :)
Love,
Sarah, You always amaze me how fast you sew articles of clothing. They are just beautiful!!!
ReplyDeleteGod bless and have a wonderful Christmas time,
d from homehaven
I've been contemplating a new winter coat of my own and I am quite inspired by your design!
ReplyDeleteI also must commend you again on your ball gown, it is SUCH a beautiful dress!!
Sarah, you're amazing! You can sew anything!!! The coat is awesome. The Festival of Lights sounds like it was a fun time. *thumbs up*
ReplyDeleteYou are so lovely in that stunning gown! I remember when my daughter was little, we had such a small budget for clothing that I used to take my older son's hand-me-downs and cut them up and re-use them to make clothes for my daughter. It was actually a very fun project to challenge myself with, making feminine garments from traditionally male colors and prints. I wish I had kept some of them. I made all of her and my clothes back them.
ReplyDeleteYour coat is fabulous, inventive, thrifty and original! I love it when people re-purpose and re-invent. I think people who can sew are very fortunate.
Sarah, your coat is fabulous, in color and cut. That collar is exactly what I wanted to acheive on my "Marianne" coat, but I am having a bear of a time with it. What did you do to get the collar to lay flat? Do you have a rise and fall to the underside of your collar, or is it just one piece?
ReplyDeleteThanks Jenni!
ReplyDeleteI had some problems with this collar too. Collars and lapels are tricky; ironically, the first few times I made mid-19th century civilian frock coats with collar/lapels I had no trouble. . .even though I had no idea what I was doing!
Do you have access to a good basic sewing manual? I have the 1970s Vogue sewing book and there is a great chapter in it about tailoring techniques. From what I've read, tailoring has really not changed at all over the years and what the mechanics of it are very much the same as they always were, though materials may have changed.
From what I've read the "roll" of the collar and the lapels is made first in the interlining layer by stitching close together in those areas, building the shape into the cloth. The outer layer is then mounted over that and then the lining placed inside.
I did not stitch the interlining in this coat as I did not put an interlining in it. So I had to rely on the moleskin and the fleece to give shape - NOT a good idea! :P It is soft and thick and not really crisp or stiff as one would desire in a tailored coat. I did get some good results with heavily steam pressing with a pressing cloth to get the fold of the collar and lapels situated. But I think I will still have to tack down the lapels to the actual coat once it is finished. I have them pinned in place right now and it looks just as it ought to look so in the end, I suppose the only one who will really know I had to make this compromise is myself. ;) Hopefully. I had to do the same thing to Davids black wool waistcoat. I will be starting a double breasted wool coat for him next week, so will try to do the stitching of the interlining and focus on that and the canvas to make the shape right. I got Laughing Moons Frock Coat pattern for that; mostly for the instructions as we already have a good pattern for a frock from Jim Ruley. If it comes out well I'll post about the instructions I used!
Thanks Jenni!
ReplyDeleteI had some problems with this collar too. Collars and lapels are tricky; ironically, the first few times I made mid-19th century civilian frock coats with collar/lapels I had no trouble. . .even though I had no idea what I was doing!
Do you have access to a good basic sewing manual? I have the 1970s Vogue sewing book and there is a great chapter in it about tailoring techniques. From what I've read, tailoring has really not changed at all over the years and what the mechanics of it are very much the same as they always were, though materials may have changed.
From what I've read the "roll" of the collar and the lapels is made first in the interlining layer by stitching close together in those areas, building the shape into the cloth. The outer layer is then mounted over that and then the lining placed inside.
I did not stitch the interlining in this coat as I did not put an interlining in it. So I had to rely on the moleskin and the fleece to give shape - NOT a good idea! :P It is soft and thick and not really crisp or stiff as one would desire in a tailored coat. I did get some good results with heavily steam pressing with a pressing cloth to get the fold of the collar and lapels situated. But I think I will still have to tack down the lapels to the actual coat once it is finished. I have them pinned in place right now and it looks just as it ought to look so in the end, I suppose the only one who will really know I had to make this compromise is myself. ;) Hopefully. I had to do the same thing to Davids black wool waistcoat. I will be starting a double breasted wool coat for him next week, so will try to do the stitching of the interlining and focus on that and the canvas to make the shape right. I got Laughing Moons Frock Coat pattern for that; mostly for the instructions as we already have a good pattern for a frock from Jim Ruley. If it comes out well I'll post about the instructions I used!