Tuesday, January 8, 2013

A 1910's Bra or Bust Bodice

It's been almost a week since my last post, and alas, I have been silent. I have actually been silently working on my 1910's corset and I failed to blog about the process of making it. I just. . .made it. I wish I had blogged about it because I don't really remember what I did, except that the pattern I planned to use (Jen Thompsons gorgeous pattern taken from an original) did not work out well for me or my figure so I ended up draping a pattern instead and I used the 1911 corset from Corsets and Crinolines as a guide for the shape of the pattern pieces. 

And it's done. It fits. I like it. 

But the problem with this style of corset is, obviously, bust support. Namely, there is no bust support. I definitely need support. So I have been trying to figure out just what women of this era did when they had bosoms. Because, obviously, not everyone had the slim, slender, slight figure that was in fashion then. And I am not just going to let myself flip and flop in careless abandon over the top edge of my corset. 
I was just wearing a modern dress under this, so had to crop the un-flattering, un-supported bosom part out. But you can see how the corset fits and smooths the figure. 

I discovered that bras were worn with corsets like these. I have come across quite a few photographs of original brassieres from this era and they look strikingly similar to some modern bras. It makes no sense to me to wear BOTH a bra AND a corset (why not just combine the two and have just 1 supportive undergarment instead?) but fashion does not always follow common sense. 
This is from earlier than the 'teens but wow - it really looks no different than a modern  bra!

It seems some bras were combined with corset covers and some were worn plain, with a corset cover on top. I am still trying to learn if bras were ever worn under the corset and chemise like a modern bra but it seems that sources would indicate they are worn on top of the chemise and the corset and may fasten to the corset to keep itself in place, as shown here in this advertisement from Lady Carolyn's interesting blog post: 

In passing, underwear of this era is really very frustrating and complicated. At least to someone coming from the early Victorian era, where a chemise, corset, drawers and petticoats were all that was needed to create a fashionable silhouette. 

After looking at a number of styles of brassieres, I decided I liked the look of this one: 

It is similar to the free pattern for a 1910's brassiere Jenni has graciously shared with us at Historically Dressed. 

I draped a bodice today that is meant to give a similar look. It is cut with princess seams since for me it is easier to get a smoother fit when using princess seams instead of darts. It is cut with the straps cut as part of the bodice instead of separately. It is fitted to my natural waist but I think for my final brassiere I will shorten the waistline a tad. The waistline of my corset hits me at about rib level so it is a little high waisted so as to give the fashionable smooth-hip look. 

I just don't know how much support is needed. Do I go for a medieval-style, bust-popping level of support or just a gentle, natural, slightly lifted support? The support of the current mock up is somewhere in the middle. It lifts the bosom up so it is above the rib-cage waistline of the corset but it is not so high as to be screaming "hey! look at meeeeeee!!"

This advertisement from Vintage Ad Browser seems to support the idea of having a moderate level of bust support although it is from the late 'teens. I like that it shows a real woman wearing a bra and corset instead of a drawn illustration. 

So, we'll see what comes of experimentation. There are so many freaking undergarments in this period. My gosh. I don't know if or when I will ever get to the shirtwaist and skirt I really want from this period!

Love,
Sarah



9 comments:

  1. I too am aiming for a moderate level of bust support for my bra. I can't wait to see your finished set of undergarments. Mine are coming along but I'm still waiting for some of my corset supplies to come in.

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  2. I once had a conversation in my teens with my grandma about the difference in lingerie from her time to mine. Now she herself didnt need adult undergarments until the mid 1930s. But I do remember her saying that my great grandma didn't buy her first bra until the 1950s. She wore either a slip or camilsole with a half slip. I'm assuming that after the s corset morphed into the lower one of the teens great grandma just let the girls swing free under her chemise or camisole. It may have something to do with her being an immigrant. Although most of the photos I've seen from that period, the women mostly seem to have the saggy boob look, so I'm thinking that even though bras existed, not everyone bought one.
    Personally though, I'm with you, I am really not comfortable letting my chest hang loose, aside from the self-consciosness of it, I find it painfull. And since bras did exist, I would definately wear one. Not sure what the correct order of garments are but I think I like the idea of wearing it under the chemise so it's less likely to show and the corset cover just sounds like one extra layer.
    Can't wait to see when the whole ensemble is done. I recently got turned on to Downton Abbey and am obsessed with the teens right now.

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  3. For Costume College the last two years I did a sort of 1930s getup using a vintage girdle (a 30's style, but manufactured into the 1970s, weird) with a Folkwear 219 "teddy" (basically a step-in combination) underneath. I was pretty shocked at how supportive it was. Not *great* mind you, but I certainly wasn't flapping in the breeze. Apparently the pressure of the top of the corset holds the chemise or camisole or whatnot in place enough, while providing just enough under-boob lift. It's worth a shot!

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  4. For Costume College the last two years I did a sort of 1930s getup using a vintage girdle (a 30's style, but manufactured into the 1970s, weird) with a Folkwear 219 "teddy" (basically a step-in combination) underneath. I was pretty shocked at how supportive it was. Not *great* mind you, but I certainly wasn't flapping in the breeze. Apparently the pressure of the top of the corset holds the chemise or camisole or whatnot in place enough, while providing just enough under-boob lift. It's worth a shot!

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  5. The corset looks good, and your mock up of the bra looks more comfortable than my modern day ones.... Looking forward to the result!

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  6. I didn't know you were interested in the "Titanic" period, but it is one of my favorite clothing eras, so I am looking forward to what you come up with. Your sewing is always inspiring to me and I enjoy your blog!
    Lisa
    http://mommysapronstrings.blogspot.com/

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  7. I second what Laura said about the chemise and corset working together to create support. I've been having the same trouble figuring out what undergarments to wear for the teens era, but I've found that a properly fitted chemise works wonderfully when cinched down by a corset. I can't wait to see the results of your experimentation, it looks great so far!

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  8. here's another 1905 example:http://omgthatdress.tumblr.com/post/40037394096/wedding-corset-1905-the-victoria-albert-museum

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  9. As a gal of large bosom this worries me as I've always done an earlier period with an overbust corset, so I will give this a go and maybe hide some elastic on the inside of the straps.

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Thank you for your lovely thoughts!