Friday, April 15, 2016

Laughing Moon #107 Men's Victorian and Edwardian Shirts for David

Laughing Moon has some really great patterns, whether you are new to historic costuming or very experienced. I bought their Men's Victorian & Edwardian shirt pattern a while ago and with a few modifications to make the design appropriate for Civil War era this pattern has been a lifesaver.

Early period shirts were cut on the sqaure, with each piece being being a square, rectangle or triangle. This method of cutting was very economical and this style of shirt was worn, little changed, over hundreds of years. By the time of the 1860's, mens shirts were starting to be cut differently so the fit was closer to the body. The tailored style shirt, or French style, was in vogue! This cut is still used today for mens dress shirts.

The mid 19th century saw the shirts undergo a transition from the strictly sqaure cut style to the curved seam french style. Shirts could have a number of features from both styles.

To adapt this pattern to represent a common 1860's style I made the following modifications to the LM pattern:

  • Cut the side seam as a straight seam instead of curved to fit the body
  • Cut the sleeve cuffs as rectangles instead of with shaped edges
  • Used the sleeve seam to make the sleeve placket instead of slashing and binding a placket
  • Cut the bottom of the shirt square instead of with rounded edges
  • Gathered the shirt back all the way across the lower edge of the yoke instead of dividing the fullness into two sections of gathers
It's hard to believe my lil guys are so old now - David will be ten this year and he was happy to get a "shirt like Daddy". Both he and Judah got shirts made in the smallest size the pattern offers. I shortened the length a little and the shirts hit my guys about knee length. The sleeves are a little long but otherwise the fit is pretty darn good! I'm happy! 

The fabric is a really awesome cotton shirting in black and white checks. Wow, I love this fabric. It was great to work with. David picked it out at a local antique & quilting shop and it was worth every penny we paid. I need to go back and buy the rest of this. 

We made his trousers and cap last week so all we have to do is make him a jacket and he will be ready to take on the world of the 1860's. Our first event is a week away so I'm feeling a little pressured - Malachi's outfit is last and there are so many things I'd like to make if I have any extra time. A new dress for Rose is *almost* a necessity since her long white gown of infancy is not so long anymore and the buttons strain over her chubby little frame. I guess she could squeeze into it for one last time but if I can get a few hours of free time in before next week after Malachi's stuff is done. . .well. . .fingers crossed. 


1 comment:

  1. Your young man looks very dashing in his new shirt! I love the color and print of it. What a fun thing to wear to the first event of the year! I can't wait to see pictures of all your sweet family in their 1860s threads!


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