Thursday, April 7, 2011

Making Double-Puff Sleeves

For nice poufy sleeves, I have learned it is far more practical, and period correct, to construct them with a fitted sleeve lining. I have learned to Love the Lining. A fitted lining makes all the difference between something hanging limply and forlorn and something poufing out nice and perkily.

So yesterday I made the sleeves. For the fitted lining I measured my armscye and my upper arm where the end of the sleeve will be. I added an inch or two extra for ease. I drew out a shape on paper using these measurements, plus the width I wanted the sleeve to be at the longest point (my back arm) and the shortest point (just forward of the underarm). This was the lining pattern. I cut two in white cotton. Then using these same measurements reeeeallllly stretched out, I cut the poufs out. Two per sleeve. Here you can see the sleeve lining for one sleeve, plus the two puff pieces.

I drew a line on each lining piece in the middle, for placement of the top of the bottom puff/bottom of the top puff.

I ran gathering stitches around the top and bottom of each puff part. I gathered the bottom edge of one puff to match the bottom edge of the lining. Right sides together I sewed the puff to the lining.

Then I turned the puff to the outside, gathered the top to match the lining and pinned the top of the puff to the middle line drawn on the lining piece. I sewed it down and voila! One puff done.

The second puff was sewn on in the same way. I gathered the bottom edge of the upper puff to match the middle line of the lining. I sewed it to this line, right sides together.

The upper puff was then turned to the outside, and the top edge gathered to match the top edge of the lining. Voila! Second puff done!

Here is the sleeve sewn into the armscye of the bodice. A nice poufy puff sleeve. :)

I am currently working on the pleated bertha. So far I have the pleats sewn down on the front portion and the pleats laid out for the back. Hopefully the dress will be finished today! I'm using the instructions/photos from Katherine's page on her bertha as a guideline for mine. It will be complete seperate from the bodice, and right now the plan is to trim the bottom edge with lace as well as perhaps the bottom of the sleeves. This style is rather severe so I'm thinking the lace may soften the effect a bit. :) For now the lace is synthetic, from Jo-Anns, but when I get the money saved I plan to update the lace with cotton lace from an heirloom sewing supplier. I may add a flower or two at center front and at the sleeves.

Love,
Sarah

12 comments:

  1. Oh, this is VERY pretty! Really looking forward to seeing the finished thing.

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  2. Oh my goodness, simply wonderful! I have always thought Berthas as being nasty and ugly little pieces, but yours is divine! WOW, I truly love it! And the sleeves are great. You have such an eye for detail and make just about anything you put your mind to!
    This dress is wonderful!

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  3. just lovely!! and i think lace and some flowers will be a nice addition.

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  4. Oh, Sarah!!! That is GORGEOUS!!!

    (I do NOT need a ball gown, I do NOT need a ball gown, I do NOT need a ball gown....)

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  5. It's lovely!! I'v often wondered how to make a pleated bertha.

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  6. SO lovely!

    That's an interesting way to make double puff sleeves. Maybe we'll have to do that one our new sheers they look alot better then the ones we did.. *reminds self to show this to Michelle when she gets home from work* :D

    Can't wait to see the finished dress. :D

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  7. Brooke, I have made (or tried) to make double puff sleeves using just one wide sleeve gathered in the middle and sewn down to a smaller sleeve. But I find this method a lot easier. And faster.

    Ya know you should try to convince your cousin to come to the ball this weekend. I just heard on FB that tickets to get in to the ball are still available, $10/person.

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  8. Thank you for this tutorial! I am using it today. I have made puff sleeves before but this refresher is great :D

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  9. This is my first time commenting but I love reading your blog! Thanks so much for this tutorial! I was making a new dress recently and I wanted double puff sleeves but had no idea where to even begin, this helped me a lot and my puff sleeves came out great!

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  10. I have been reading your blog for years. I love coming to it for small pointers and stuff. I was looking everywhere for a double puffed sleeve. I decided to look on your blog, and to think it was under my nose the whole time! I made the double puffed sleeve using your directions and they look perfect! Thank you for such healpfull instructions.

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  11. Hi! I found your blog while searching for 1800-1900 style dresses and I am really impressed!! You are SUCH a skilled seamstress.

    I’m having an old-fashioned ball for my birthday this year and I want to make a ball dress. Do you have any advice on where to find patterns?? I’ve looked. But no real luck, so far. Also where do you get your fabric?

    I’m hoping for a dress somewhat similar to this one - http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-B8vAhFH59w8/UEEs0B_fluI/AAAAAAAAOMM/d8ZzQ4eP98k/s320/bleakhouse12+%25280676%2529.jpg

    (but really anything with this basic shape and style, from this time period...Or just any 1800s ball dress patterns that you like.)

    Thanks so much!!

    ReplyDelete
  12. Hi! I found your blog while searching for 1800-1900 style dresses and I am really impressed!! You are SUCH a skilled seamstress.

    I’m having an old-fashioned ball for my birthday this year and I want to make a ball dress. Do you have any advice on where to find patterns?? I’ve looked. But no real luck, so far. Also where do you get your fabric?

    I’m hoping for a dress somewhat similar to this one - http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-B8vAhFH59w8/UEEs0B_fluI/AAAAAAAAOMM/d8ZzQ4eP98k/s320/bleakhouse12+%25280676%2529.jpg

    (but really anything with this basic shape and style, from this time period....Or just any 1800s ball dress patterns that you like.)

    Thanks so much!!!

    ReplyDelete

Thank you for your lovely thoughts!